Friday, May 16, 2008

Peru Pics

As you can guess the highlight of the trip was the little city on the mountain top, Machu Picchu. We really got lucky because we were traveling during the off season... right at the end of the rainy season, so there were significantly less tourists than normal (look at this picture! you can´t see anyone!) and the weather was absolutely perfect that day. We arrived in the afternoon when the majority of tourist groups were leaving so we had the freedom to leisurely wander the ruins with out feeling like herded cattle. It was nice just to sit down, enjoy the view and contemplate the history of this place. I wasn´t part of the hippie crowd doing tai chi and meditation with the llamas or anything, but I definitely got a very special vibe from this place. Just as we were leaving a rainbow formed... coming from the deep valley bottom and arching over the ruins. It was perfect. Now only if we had remembered to bring our guide book so we knew what we were looking at...




Our next stop was Arequipa. A really cool city in the south/central mountains. I actually liked Arequipa more than Cuzco. It was a lot less touristy and it probably didn´t hurt that it was warm and sunny the whole time. Unlike Cuzco where it was frigid and drizzling and you had to run the gauntlet of vendors every time you left your hostel. But let´s face it. Cusco is a pretty awesome city. So much history! But now back to Arequipa.


This is the main plaza . All the cathedrals and major buildings are made form this white volcanic rock called silar. Very pretty. Below is a view of the country side and the surrounding volcanoes. Absolutely gorgeous!


After a few days in Arequipa we headed to the Colca Canyon. One of the deepest canyons in the world. The scenery was very reminiscent of the Sacred Valley outside of Cuzco. With all the stone walls and terracing. We woke up very early one morning to go to canyon and El Cruz de los Condores. We got to the cross and waited till the sun warmed us and the condors up to get a glimpse of the Andean Condor. The condor is one of those iconic symbols of the Andes and it was incredible to finally see one in flight.


A beautiful church in one of the many little pueblos on our way to the Cross.


Finally! It´s a condor! (looked a lot more impressive in real life)

Our last stop on the trip was the southern coastal town of Pisco. I was really excited about the prospect of lounging on the beach and sippin´a Pisco Sour after more than a year of being landlocked in Bolivia. Unfortunately, Pisco is not really a place to go sunbathing and frolic in the waves. The beach and the water in the harbor were not what you would call very inviting. The beaches were pretty rocky and dirty and the water in the harbor just looked icky. I rolled up my pants and dipped a toe in, just to say I'd touched the ocean more than anything.

Actually, we stayed at a little place south of Pisco called Paracas, nearby Paracas National Park and Las Islas Balestas. A lot more charming than the devastated ruins of Pisco (Pisco was the epicenter of the earthquake last year and is still slowly recovering).

We took a group tour of Paracas Park. It's main attraction is a natural arch carved by the waves called El Catedral. Unfortunately, the arch actually collapsed during the earth quake and was more depressing than awe inspiring. The Candelabra, a mysterious etching in the sand dunes located in the park could only be viewed from boat. On our way to the Balestas Islands we stoped for a better view and pondered it's origins. Paracas Indians, pirates or Mason's? Who knows?

Shoot!! I erased the picture. Will add it again later.

The highlight of our time on the coast was the trip out to the Balestas Islands (otherwise known as the poor man´s Galapagos Islands). There's a group of small islands that are home to thousands, perhaps millions, of sea birds. Every inch of these islands were covered in birds and their guano... pelicans, cormorants, boobies, puffins and even a few penguins. Not to mention the thousands of birds constantly flying overhead. There was also a large sea lion colony with lots of cute pups. A really neat place.

Tuesday, May 6, 2008

Ch -Ch- Ch- Changes

I've just started teaching an English conversation class at a local English institute. There are ten students in the class, mainly 15 to 17 years old. There's one 36 year old who works at the local army post. My old site mate Julia used to teach the class so I'm sort of taking over for her and hopefully I can start it up again for the next year. So yeah... my site mate's gone and so are a few other Tarija volunteers and a new group is already here to replace them (called our shadow group because they are exactly a year behind us). It's sad but, thus is the vicious cycle of PC.

The new guy in Bermejo, Peter, seems pretty chill... just not Julia! No one to swap clothes, drink wine and watch American Idol with anymore! Well... Peter can put back the wine but, we just can't then gossip and watch girlie sitcoms together.

So anyway... I'm bummed that Julia is gone but, pretty happy about the English class. It's nice to have a little more structure to my life! (it's an everyday class) And the kids (so far) are pretty fun to work with. Lots of positive energy. And I'll get more experience with high school kids which is really what I need.

Oh yeah... almost forgot! It appears that I now have a cat. I ran across this filthy, wet, shivering and crying kitten that looked to have been lost or abandoned. She was the most miserable thing I had ever seen and after a few minutes of staring at her while I debated the pro's and con's of taking her in I finally decided that I couldn't just leave her there in the street. (it's that damn guilt again!) So I took her home, gave her a bath and now she's undergoing treatment with the vet, She's so skinny, but hardly eats so I took her to the vet to get her checked out. He's giving her antibiotics. She's not particularly cute, orange and white patches with one blue and one hazel eye, but she's a good cuddler.

Some thoughts on one year

Well well... it's been a little over one year in site (one year and three months total in Bolivia and eleven months left! Yes... I've officially begun the countdown and not because I can't wait to get out of here, but rather I can't wait to get back to the states! I´m beginning to really miss it.) and looking back on it well... I'm not really sure where to begin. Overall I feel pretty content about my service. Not amazing, and by no means horrible... ya know... pretty good. I suppose that the one thing keeping me from feeling great about it is the feeling that I should have accomplished incredible things by now (don't really know what those incredible things might have been exactly), but it's been a year and I feel like I should have something substantial to show for it. But here I am, still just chugging along, waiting for my big success. Don't get me wrong, I have had many little mini successes, but as far as one great (tangible) success story... I'm still working on it. Everyone says that things don´t really get cracking work wise till your second year anyways so I´ll try not to dwell on it.

I guess it doesn't help that I just got back in site from a pretty long absence (one week in Cochabamba for mandatory med appointments and meetings and two weeks in Peru vacationing with Mom...pics to be included in the next blog!) and after any long absence I feel like I'm starting from scratch all over again. Well... not from scratch exactly, but the energy to get it going again is substantial. A more accurate description would be that the energy to get ME going again is substantial. I guess that's just the nature of having a job with no real structure, one that starts and stops according to my whims.

And it also doesn't help that just before I left I had my first big project (the one I was so excited about, the one I thought would be the most significant and beneficial for my community, my success story!) basically blow up in my face. So to be honest, I wasn't really looking forward to returning. Not because I'm sick of Bermejo or anything (actually it feels good to be back, it's got it's own quirky kind of charm)... it's just that I was kind of dreading starting it all back up again. The fear of failing again I suppose.

It was really great to see everyone in Cochabamba. Besides just getting to spend time with some of the most amazing people I've meet in my life (really we're pretty awesome in PC ; ) it was really reassuring to hear that basically everyone is having the same troubles and frustrations as you. The most universal complaints being: unreliable work partners, cheap and otherwise useless Alcaldias, constant guilt that your not doing enough, people expecting you to do EVERYTHING for them, and the list goes on... and I can definitely relate to all of them!

Actually, I was a little surprised about the guilt one. A little guilt is good, it keeps you from being a completely worthless bum. But I thought I was the only one putting copious amount of completely unnecessary guilt on myself. I've always been kind of rough on myself... definitely guilty of being my own worst critic. I have high expectations of myself and for my Peace Corps service, but there comes a point when you have to realize that there are other factors preventing your success than you (especially true in Bolivia!). And your expectations are not always realistic (doubly true in Bolivia!). So yeah... I'm trying to lighten up on myself! It's funny you run across people that well... your not really sure what they've been doing in their sites all this time, but they are so proud of their service! Then there are others who are like golden glimmering model volunteers. They've done so much cool stuff and still they feel like they should of done more! People are funny like that.

I've definitely learned one thing from this whole crazy experience and that is- Development work is not easy! Especially when you have no money to offer... such is the case with PC. Bolivia is such a poor country that the people are used to having NGO's come in and just handing them projects with little or no investment from the people who are supposed to be benefiting from them. And many times because of that...a year later the big expensive project is a complete failure. Because no one had any investment in it! They don't care if it fails... it wasn't their money.

I do like the Peace Corp's philosophy- small projects with community investment (the theory is they are more successful and sustainable that way), but damn it's really hard to do! You'll talk about these ideas for projects and everybody is like yeah, yeah, that sounds great! But when you actually need to collect the money or have people show up to work it's a totally different story (I'll be sure to include my project horror story in here later so you can see exactly what I'm talking about).

Monday, May 5, 2008

Wish List

So a few people have been asking lately what I need. And the short answer is that I don't really need anything. I can find pretty much all of the essentials down here and the "I just can't do PC without" things like Carmex SPF chap stick, Assie spray in conditioner, and Oil of Olay anti-aging cream have pretty much been taken care of till I leave here thanks to some awesome friends and family. But there are a few things that, while not per say "necessary", would be pretty amazing to receive...

red vines (twizzlers are not an acceptable substitute)
reeses pieces
chex mix
pesto sauce packets (and any other handy sauce mix like that)
Chinese rice crackers
one of those Hickory Farms sausage logs (I eat a lot of crackers down here)
new music, movies or tv shows (i-tunes cards!!) I now have a computer!
interesting "light" reading material (Rolling Stone, Nat. Geo., Jane, ect...)
perfume samples (anything citrus, floral or sweet smelling) or a body spray!